Our weekend getaway to Ashikaga

Emils came to me one Friday and said he had taken Monday off and asked if we should go somewhere for a night or two. This was a little last minute, but I started planning right away.

First, I had to find a place to go. We live in Tokyo and don't have a car, so I wanted to find a place we could get to by train. Not the shinkansen (bullet train), though, as it costs more than a normal train. So I asked ChatGPT to give me a list of places to go and things to do there. I looked into all the places it gave me, and Ashikaga was the only one with a couple of hotels available. So I booked it. It was the Toyoko Inn, which isn't anything fancy, but it had everything we needed for a one-night stay. We packed a backpack each, and I laid out a plan of what to do and when.

Arrival

We had to take a few trains to get there from where we live in Tokyo. We left the house around 9:40 am so we could be there for lunchtime.

When we got there, we went to a restaurant I had found on Google Maps beforehand, but despite the opening hours on Google Maps saying they were open, they were closing just as we arrived. We then had to look for another place. Emils found one a couple of minutes away, so we went there to try our luck. This place was open, but there was a queue outside, so we had to wait. It was cold, as we went there in February, and there was a very cold wind. When we finally got to go inside, we were seated at one of the tables where you sit on the floor. The family behind us in the queue was seated next to us. Emils initiated a conversation with them, and they were a really nice group of people. Our Japanese is not very good, and the same went for their English, so we communicated the best we could and had some help from Google Translate.

Emils asked them if they wanted to have dinner with us as well, which they agreed to. We told them about our plans for our stay and agreed on a time for dinner after our sightseeing. They made a reservation at a place they knew and said they would pick us up at the hotel at 5:30 pm.

Orihime Shrine

After lunch, we headed to Orihime Shrine, a beautiful shrine dedicated to Orihime, the goddess of weaving and relationships. Originally built in 1704 to protect Ashikaga’s thriving textile industry, the shrine was reconstructed in 1937 after a fire. Perched on Mount Orihime, it offers stunning views of the city and is a popular spot for those seeking blessings in love, career success, and craftsmanship.

To reach the shrine, you can either climb 229 stone steps or take a scenic path lined with vibrant torii gates. While red torii gates are common in Japan, what makes this place unique is the variety of colours—you’ll find gates in shades of green, yellow, blue, and purple.

Banna-ji Temple

We then walked over to Banna-ji Temple, a historic Buddhist temple in Ashikaga with strong ties to the samurai class. Originally built in the 12th century, it was the residence of the Ashikaga family before being converted into a temple. The main hall, dating back to the 14th century, is now a designated National Treasure.

The temple complex is enclosed by a moat and earthen walls, giving it the appearance of a fortified temple. This traditional layout reflects its samurai history and defensive design. Within the grounds, there are several smaller shrines and a large ginkgo tree said to be centuries old. Banna-ji follows the Shingon sect of Buddhism and remains an important site for both religious practice and samurai history.

Ashikaga Gakkō

We then walked to Ashikaga Gakkō, known as the oldest school in Japan. Its exact origins are unclear. Some believe it was founded in 832 AD by the poet and scholar Ono no Takamura, while others think it was established in the late 12th century by the samurai lord Ashikaga Yoshikane. In 1432, the local governor helped revive the school by donating books and appointing a new headmaster. By the early 16th century, it had around 3,000 students.

In 1549, the missionary Francis Xavier described it as the largest and most well-known school in eastern Japan. The original buildings were lost during the Edo period when lightning caused a fire, but they were later rebuilt. The site was designated a National Historic Site in 1928 and became a recognised Japan Heritage site in 2015. Today, visitors can walk through the reconstructed buildings and gardens, offering a glimpse into its long history.

Dinner

At 5:30 pm, we met with the family we had met at lunch outside the hotel. We then drove together to the restaurant. This was a very nice Japanese restaurant. We were greeted when we entered and taken to a private room. Then we got a taster menu with a variety of small Japanese dishes. This was very interesting to try. There were definitely some we enjoyed more than others.

The first dish we got was fish milt, which is the sperm from a fish. I took only a tiny bite, and that was enough for me to know that I did not need to finish it. Emils was braver than me and finished the whole thing—not that he enjoyed it.

I think my favourite was the wagyu beef with bamboo. Delicious! You can never go wrong with wagyu beef.

Ashikaga Flower Park Illumination

After dinner, we were dropped off at our last stop of the day, which was the Flower Garden. We wanted to see their winter illumination.

Ashikaga Flower Park's winter illumination is a highly acclaimed event, showcasing over five million LED lights that bring seasonal flowers to life, including the park’s iconic wisteria. Recognised as one of Japan’s best illumination displays, it has held the top spot in the national ‘Illumination Award’ for seven consecutive years, a ranking determined by certified experts in night tourism across the country.

Running from mid-October to mid-February, the event is divided into themed areas featuring light tunnels, illuminated waterfalls, and flower-inspired displays. The reflections on the water add to the spectacle, creating a stunning visual experience. It’s a standout attraction during the winter season. We are so happy we went here. It was definitely worth seeing.

Coco Farm & Winery

The next morning, after breakfast at the hotel, we made our way to Ashikagashi Station to catch a bus to Coco Farm & Winery.

Established in 1980, the winery is known for its natural winemaking techniques and hillside vineyards, which were originally planted in 1958 as part of a school project for students with disabilities. Over time, it has gained a strong reputation for producing high-quality wines. Visitors can explore the vineyards, sample a variety of wines, and enjoy locally inspired food pairings at the on-site café, all while taking in the picturesque surroundings.

We began with the wine tasting set, which included three varieties—a white, a red, and a rosé—paired with individual cheeseboards offering an assortment of cheeses, meat, and crackers. To complement the tasting, we also ordered some fresh bread.

For dessert, we shared a rich and creamy cheesecake, accompanied by another glass of wine to round off the experience.

Once we were finished at Coco Farm & Winery, we headed back to Tokyo. This was a great trip and one we will remember for years to come. Ashikaga is definitely a place I would consider revisiting. I would love to come back in late spring when the wisteria is blooming in Ashikaga Flower Park and when there are leaves on the grapevines at Coco Farm & Winery.